Among apparel, the shawl weaving takes the first place undoubtedly. However large may be the contribution from different states, Kashmir remains for ages, and the king of Indian shawl weaving. Bringing to the world the unsurpassed softness of Pashmina and toosh, popularly known as cashmere and the intricacies of the Jamawar style, the master weavers of Kashmir have certainly proved their unmatched skill. Shawls in Pashmina and toosh are all hand woven since the fragility of the yarn does not allow the use of a machine loom. Toosh is however now banned by the Government of India as it involved indiscriminate killing of the chiru antelope. Jamawar is another woven splendor of the Kashmir craftsmen. Here the task is further complicated as the designs on these shawls are realized not by embroidery but by the simultaneous weaving with wool shuttles of different colors. These shuttles known as ‘kaani’ in the local language gives ‘Jamawar’ another name-’kaani shawl’. The wool being delicate, it is essential to use the hands instead of machine and that requires enormous patience of the weavers among all the other qualities. Due to the enormous effort put in weaving and the amount of time it requires to be completed, the prices of the real Jamawar shawls are very high in the market since the old times. These shawls were so special that they often made the exclusive royal gifts to the foreign guests. They were also en vogue in many parts of Europe mainly as they held close resemblance to the Paisley shawls. The colours used in one shawls vary from two to fifty. More the number of colour, more difficult the weaving. However to meet the large demand and to cater to the middle class customers, the weavers of north India have come up with beautiful Jamawar like shawls with at much lower price than the original Jamawar.
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