The most significant reference to the jamawar also comes in the Ain-i-Akbari but it does not say anything regarding the designs of these jamawars and the visual evidence from Akbar’s period, does not tell much. The next important reference is Moorcroft’s. He says, ‘The length of this cloth is three-quarter gaz and the breadth one and a half gaz and these were specially made for the Persian and Afghani markets.’ It appears from literary references that initially the jamawar was the trade name for a special kind of woolen fabric that was prevalent among Afghans and Persians. Later, other communities also wore it. It becmae so popular that weavers started using the term jamawar even for those long shawls that had floral designs over the field and did not have any border. These jamawars were made of pashm wool though some cotton or silk fibres were also used a times.
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